Kerry Cliffs

The Skellig Ring loops off the main Ring of Kerry onto a narrow, spectacular stretch of coast west of Portmagee, and its high point - literally - is a rampart of cliffs that few visitors expect. Rising reputedly more than three hundred metres above the waves, the Kerry Cliffs are the tallest in the region, a wall of ancient sandstone folded and tilted some four hundred million years ago and now scoured by the open Atlantic. Unlike the great tourist cliffs elsewhere in Ireland, these sit on private farmland, opened to visitors by the family who work it, and they remain refreshingly low-key.

From the car park a short but fairly steep path climbs to fenced viewing platforms strung along the cliff edge. The reward is one of the best panoramas on the whole peninsula: on a clear day the Skellig Islands stand sharp on the horizon, with Skellig Michael and gannet-white Little Skellig unmistakable, while Puffin Island lies closer inshore, its grassy slopes riddled with seabird burrows. Below, the sea churns white against the base of the rock, and on a still evening you can watch fishing boats and the last Skellig cruises track back toward harbour. In late spring and early summer the cliffs themselves come alive with nesting gannets, guillemots and puffins, and the air fills with their calls and the smell of the colony. It is, for many, the closest they will get to the Skelligs - a fine consolation for anyone who couldn't land a boat ticket.

The site is a recognised Wild Atlantic Way viewpoint and has drawn its share of film and photography crews, but it never feels like a machine. There are simple facilities - parking, refreshments, shelter - and a scattering of resident farm animals that delight younger visitors. The platforms are set at different levels, so it's worth walking the full length rather than stopping at the first, since the view opens differently from each. A visit takes about an hour, and the cliffs are at their best on a bright, calm morning, when the light is behind you and the crowds are thin; in poor weather the platforms close, since wind here is no joke.

You'll find the cliffs signposted just off the Skellig Ring a few minutes' drive from Portmagee, making them an easy pairing with a boat trip or a loop over to Valentia Island. There is a modest admission charged at the gate, which includes the car park; bring a warm layer whatever the forecast.